I’ve been keeping busy in the ocean trying to squeeze every last drop of sunshine that I can out of my days. Since time is limited and I don’t have enough time for a swim before the sun comes down I’ve been doing a lot of bodyboarding. Bodyboarding is great because one, it’s fun and two, it’s excellent cold water tolerance training. Spend an hour floating in mid upper 50 degree water without a wetsuit waiting for waves and see if that toughens you up a bit :) whoo!

Anyways, the last week I’ve been down in Pismo a lot. During that time I’ve switched boards to something a bit bigger and holy crap is it fast! It took me a day to get a feel for it, but now that I have it partially figured out… wow. I’m stoked. I probably had one of the best waves of my life tonight.

Oddly one of the fun parts of playing in the ocean is the people watching. the Pismo Pier gets a little crowded sometimes and you meet some interesting people and see some odd stuff. Last week I got to shoot the shit with some Swedish kids in between sets. They’re Cal Poly exchange students just here for the year and making the most of their time in California by learning to surf. The lineup in Pismo is a weird place to get to speak Swedish, but I’ll take it :) This evening I had an interesting sea life encounter. An otter came kicking on his back through like 15 guys while eating a snack off of his tummy. He passed within a few feet of me and a lot of other guys. He didn’t care one bit about all of us humans around him, sometimes the nonchalance of my marine mammal friends is pretty amusing.

The other great thing about catching waves in the evenings would be the sunsets. If you think they’re great from the beach, try one from in the water. The colors are spectacular. Pismo faces due west and the sun sets straight out from where you’re surfing so you watch it turn deeper orange and red as it drops into the water behind the incoming sets. It’s a bummer to see it go, but at least it puts on a show on it’s way out!

I’m probably going to hit the beach after work everyday this week just to get what I can before daylight savings hits, that’s going to ruin a lot of my fun… boo.

Just some proof that Firehouse Wax can hold up to a little surfing :}D

5 Responses to “Swedes, Sea Otters, and Sunsets”

  1. Evan says:

    I thought this was going to be a review of Swedish goggles. I was mildly disappointed, until I saw the beard pic. That is some world class facial hair my friend.

  2. Rob D says:

    I’m glad I squeaked out a victory in the end there :)

  3. Evan says:

    Though, to your credit, you’ve also convinced me I should probably upgrade from my 1993 Morey Boogie with the decapitated leash.

  4. Rob D says:

    93 is a good vintage :) Well if you want a deal on an almost new board I’ve got one that would probably fit you a lot better than me!

  5. Evan says:

    Hmm, really? Let’s discuss this over the weekend.