I met Dani at Avila Beach tonight after work and I was excited to reunite with my favorite body of water. The Pacific was nice and cool (maybe 53-54?) and felt great once I got over the initial shock of it all. As expected it barely tasted salty at all tonight. At one point I splashed water into my mouth on purpose just to make sure I had actually given myself a chance to taste it… nothing. Makes sense I would be tasting anything though seeing as I spent my day spitting out chunks of my tongue. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again… marathon swimming is a sexy sport :p
Although the water felt great, there wasn’t a lot of movement in it. The waves were pretty lacking. There was a steady stream of little guys breaking in really shallow water, and if you waited long enough you’d get about 3 bigger waves in a row that were more appropriate for surfing.
Since we started with a big wait I paddled around just to paddle. I’m getting a lot better at maintaining my balance on the board without as much effort, and I can really get moving when I’m paddling. Major improvement from where I started.
Early on I managed to catch one wave and actually stand up on it. I popped up fast like you’re supposed to, had my arms out balancing me, and after a few short seconds bailed out to the side. It wasn’t a big ride but it was probably my best yet! Unfortunately it was never repeated, but at least I got to feel what it was like to temporarily do it right!
After that I spent a lot of time chasing down waves that I couldn’t quite catch. Although I had one where I was a little too far in front of it, that was exciting. I was paddling, the wave was curling behind me, I got a late take off and sunk the nose of the board… uh oh… we both were shot forward. I went from surfing on my tummy on the board to bodysurfing without the board! I was really concerned with where that big pointy board might be! When I dropped out of the wave I got low and covered my head just in case my surfboard was chasing after me.
Eventually Dani got cold and got out. She took my camera with her though and managed to document some of my best moves :) If I’m not the world’s greatest surfer I don’t know who is… just sayin’
The pool in Santa Maria is closed this week so I think I might take my board out to Pismo at lunch instead to get in some more practice… we’ll see…