Today was International Surfing Day and I was stoked to get the chance to celebrate appropriately. I still suck at surfing but trying is fun :) It seemed like we had a nice day brewing based on the weather at my office but apparently the marine layer was in full effect along the coast all day. By about 3:30 it had creeped all the way to my office. The sun disappeared and the air temp dropped noticeably… fun.

After work I ran home to throw on boardshorts and grab my surf board. From there I drove into the thickening fog to the beach. It wasn’t looking too hot down there, but the waves were a little cleaner than usual for the afternoon so I couldn’t get too disappointed in the conditions. Dani showed up about 10 minutes later and we walked to the beach with boards on our heads because we both have surfboards we can’t wrap our arms all the way around. I wish my arm was like an inch longer so I could hold my board differently… despite only being 8ft long it’s pretty big in every other direction!

Down at the water we walked in and it felt pretty good. Still running 55-56ish probably. We made sure to keep a good amount of distance between us and the pier where the actual surfers were hanging out. Didn’t want to hit anyone or get run over. Especially after seeing some near collisions while I was watching waves up in the parking lot.

We proceeded to do the best we could and fall down a lot. I’m getting pretty good at paddling and even getting into a wave, but the standing up part is just not happening. I was temporarily up on my feet a few times, my knees once, and slipped back onto my belly once half way into standing at some point. I’m comically awesome at this :) I had some pretty spectacular falls in shallow water. The people on shore got quite a show, haha…

Dani was faring about the same and I got to witness a pretty epic fall on her part. She did like a backwards cartwheel off her board… it was spectacular :p

After an hour of hoping to not hurt ourselves in the pursuit of standing on a wave we called it a day and departed from the ocean. Right on time too because the waves were starting to get a little messier and hard to paddle through anyways.

Tomorrow I’ll be back in swim action at the pool to see how much my shoulders have decided to like me again… hopefully a lot more than they did last week!

2 Responses to “Attempting to Celebrate International Surfing Day”

  1. Brendan says:

    Rob, I’m a very lousy surfer also but the key is to get into the good wave areas where the good surfers are. Doing it alone is tough, because they get hostile, but if you have two or more bad surfers you have the power of numbers and they leave you alone mostly. The good waves drop you down fast when they break, like a roller coaster as it drops after inching up the hill and starting the descent (you feel your stomach lift). This “drop” as you catch the good wave helps lift you up onto your feet easier.

  2. Rob D says:

    yeah I’ve been creeping closer to the better waves, but the best stuff breaks right at the pier and I just don’t have the chops to deal with that yet. I think I’ve figured a lot of it out conceptually I’m just so slow getting up that I miss my moment. Between a bad back and questionable knees I don’t really “pop” up for anything… gotta work on that.