It was rainy and grey and generally pretty gross out this morning so obviously the only thing to go do was surf? Why not right? :) My friend Kelly from the pool texted me in the morning that she was going to surf on the north side of the Pismo pier. I figured no one was going to swim in Avila today and I really needed some ocean time just to make me happy so this was currently the best idea ever! I threw on some boardshorts and tossed my board in the truck and drove to the beach.
I got a few odd looks on my way down to the sand for my lack of wetsuit… the water was somewhere in the low 50′s and wetsuits, hoods, and booties were pretty much standard issue for everybody out there. Kelly had no problem spotting me walking out and met me at the water’s edge. I made sure to admit that I had no idea what I was doing and not be surprised when I was awful. She went into instructor mode and made me get down on the board in the sand and pop up to figure out which foot I lead with. Turns out I’m goofy footed… I don’t know what that means but I’m not surprised :)
We waded out a ways and once it was about chest high started to paddle. I think I’ve figured out about where I need to be on the board now to stay on it and actually get somewhere. Last time I went out I kept falling off or sinking the nose of it. We didn’t go all the way out to where the big waves were breaking, I really had no business being in shoulder to head high waves amongst the guys that were actually, you know, good :) Kelly caught a few waves and I made some attempts. My timing was pretty off, I usually body surf or boogie board, I’m not used to maneuvering an 8 foot board through the waves. Most of the time I’d feel the rush of the wave underneath me and then slide down the back of it. I figured out later that I needed to move forward a few inches to make sure I actually fell into the wave instead of out the back of it.
After a little while Kelly dropped her board off on the beach and came back in to help me figure it out a little more. She spotted waves for me and would give me a push into them to make sure I got in. I stood up a few times… not for very long mind you… but I was up and she says that counts so I’ll take it! I did find that in the moment I was very bad at observing her basic rules like “hey don’t go head first off your board.” On one wave as I was taking a tumble off the board I totally dove which is pretty stupid in 3 feet of water. Hard to suppress those swimmer urges I guess. Let’s just hope I don’t learn that lesson the hard way.
After a while she started to get cold and I had probably done enough falling down for one day so we departed from the sea. I’m suspicious of the water quality, but I had a lot of fun and I’m really glad I went. I’ll need to do a lot more of this until I figure it out enough to say that I can surf without it being like, completely untruthful :)