It was super hot out of nowhere here on the central coast today! We were up in the high 80′s which is waaaaay too hot for me. I was baking in my office with one thing on my mind… cold wonderful ocean water. Nobody around here has air conditioning so your only real options for cooling off are 1. taking a drive 2. going to a movie 3. jumping into the Pacific. I chose option number 3 :)
I spent the afternoon looking for someone to swim with me but no one else was in. I ended up throwing a boogie board and fins in my truck and just going to the beach… it was busy down there! I lucked out and got a good parking spot and then drug all my crap down on the sand.
I watched the waves for a little while to decide where to situate myself. Like yesterday it was fairly flat with a few bigger waves in each set. Right now there’s a spot right in line with the first buoy on the point side of the pier where the water rushes out creating slightly better than usual wave for surfing… it actually peels to the side a little instead of just crashing over the top. I kicked out to the right of that spot and waited for the right waves to come.
I had a few good rides today. The way the waves were formed I could turn real hard into them and rush along the face for a bit before it closed out on me, fun! My fun ended though when I got separated from my board. I misjudged a wave, aborted at the last minute and had the leash ripped from my wrist by the sea. I had to bodysurf in on the next wave behind it to try and catch up! It took a while but I finally got my hands back on the board and decided to call it a day. The mix of 88 degree air and 52 degree water had balanced me out :)