5 of us went out for a short swim tonight at Avila and we were greeted by some big waves! We had some really clean 6-7 footers rolling through the beach tonight! That’s pretty major for Avila. Although we were there to swim I was definitely looking forward to some body surfing action at the end of the swim!
To make things a little more exciting I had about $550 worth of electronics in my speedo. That’s not a sentence you get to write everyday huh? My new camera (a Pentax Optio W90) showed up to the office before the swim so I took it along with my Olympus that I’m not so much a fan of to the beach. I’m really glad none of these big waves stripped my suit and my speedo based camera store off into the depths of the ocean! That would have been embarrassing and expensive.
It took a little doing to get out to the buoy line tonight with the big waves rolling through, and then there was a bit of a current pushing us around out there as well. The water felt pretty cold but Niel’s new thermometer called it at 58… the surf report on the radio was calling for 54-56… not sure who was right but the surf report felt closer to the truth. The plan was to swim down the short south end of the buoy line , go over the top of the pier and then turn towards the beach. Not quite a mile, but we didn’t have much daylight so it was probably about as much time as we could have reasonably spent in the water anyways.
I was pretty frosty at the first stop, but I mellowed out as we moved along. I had a moment where I thought I got hit by a jellyfish though which was kind of funny. I was prickly cold for a while and a rough piece of kelp smacked me on the arm. With as over sensitive as I was at that moment it felt like a sting across the top of my bicep! Totally weird sensation.
At the top of the pier we took some time to regroup and float around. 2 swimmers took off for the beach early because one of them was getting really cold. While Pete finished catching up me and Niel enjoyed the view. Big swells were making themselves apparent out there. You’d be minding your own business and then just raise like 2 feet for a moment as they steamed for the beach. It was getting me excited about what we might have to surf back at the beach.
We had some epic body surfing tonight on the way in. Big, clean, easy to catch waves all over the place. I caught one wave that was pretty much the best wave of my life. I got a piece of the top of it and sped forward towards the beach. I felt like I was skipping across the top of the water! Totally rad ride! My girlfriend saw it from the pier and affirmed that it was indeed awesome :) I went back out for one more and caught another big guy. Wasn’t quite as epic as the first but still pretty legit. If the sun weren’t almost gone I could have spent way more time playing out there!
So now we’re done for real with Wednesday night swims… we’ve pushed it as far as we could, but when the time changes this weekend there’s no way we can squeeze out anymore. I’m going to miss these Wednesday night swims, they were one of the best parts of my work week. Now I need to find a lunch time ocean buddy for Tuesdays or Thursdays… any takers? :)