Even though I wasn’t going to a swim meet or a race or anything this weekend I still wanted to spend some time in the ocean. I decided it would be a good day to just mess around in the waves and go body surfing. I slept in a little bit and then packed a bag with my duck feet fins and some board shorts then made my way out to Avila. Heidi came with me to watch and get her feet wet a bit.

It was an absolutely gorgeous day… lots of sunshine, clear skies and it was warm. With it being November and all the beach was pretty quiet. There were a few teenagers boogie boarding out there and some folks walking around in town and on the pier. I think October and November are probably 2 of the nicest months here on the Central Coast. The weather is good and there’s not a lot of tourists so us locals have the beaches largely to ourselves. The water wasn’t exactly getting in on this same warmth thing the air was. Based on what it felt like and what the closest ocean buoy is saying it was probably 55-56 out there.

oh hai bird

On the way out into the water the worst part is getting the fins on. I can’t really do it standing up so I have to sit down in the shallow water and let all the cold water wash over me… brrrr… I don’t mind cold water, but that first dunking always sucks! I swam out and staked out a spot just to the left of the boogie boarders.

swimming back out to find more wave-age

The waves that were coming through were anything from little 2-3 footers to the occasional 5-6er. The waves in Avila are usually really nice and clean and well defined making them pretty easy to catch as long as you time things right. Only problem is they tend to break all at once in a straight line not giving you much time to try and break right or left down the face of the wave. I kept getting a hold of really fun waves and did a lot of experimenting out there. I tried turning as hard as I could into the wave, riding them out at far as I could, and I’m working on rolling while riding. I saw a dude on youtube who spins over in the wave by tossing an arm around and decided I want to do that too :) For the most part I was actually successful at this. Sometimes it looked like I was just getting tossed around, but I was doing it on purpose so that has to count for something right?

After 40 minutes or so I came in for a while to soak in some sun and take a drink. The water was still looking really good so I went back in for one more round. For the most part it was more of the same… wait a while, pick out a wave I like, gooooooooooooo… I did however catch one just a little wrong. My timing was off. I was a little late but powered my way onto the crest of the wave with my fins. This started awesome, I felt like I was flying… and then I was actually flying. I went straight out and into the bottom of the ocean. Luckily I had a hand out front leading because it broke my fall. Without it I would have meet the bottom head first and my fat ass mixed with the inertia of a 5 or 6 foot wave would have probably broken my damn neck! Note to self… always be paying attention, the ocean remains dangerous even when it’s really fun.

back in...

I took 4 or 5 more rides and then brought it back to the beach. This was a genius idea :) Lots of fun and besides a pair of fins no real equipment necessary. I’m still waiting for the day that I can use this particular skill to pass someone in an open water race… I would love to catch a wave and fly past a bunch of people on my way to the finish just one time! Someday…

Tomorrow I’ll be back in the ocean for our regular Sunday training swim. If the surf is still looking fun I’ll definitely have my fins in my bag just in case!

as it turns out I am a duck footed sea monster of some sort

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